Cool Down

Every session

10-15 minutes – climbing specific exercises (regeneration) – recover technique, allow body to focus on technical skills (this will

  • benefit your technique long term as it is the last thing your body remembers
    • This should be done on easy to moderate problems allowing focus on movement
    • Footwork (2-3 minutes) – Place each foot precisely on each hold, making as little sound as possible and not scuffing.
    • Body Position (2-3 minutes) – Think about different body positions on the wall e.g. Egyptians, Bridging, Rock-overs, etc.
    • Momentum (2-3 minutes) –Think about how you use momentum to carry yourself from one hold to another. Rather than statically pulling between every handhold, produce a little swing.
    • Increase Speed (2-3 minutes) – Begin to increase the speed of your climbing (maintaining good footwork and body positioning)

 

15-20 minutes – Foam rolling – increase blood flow to muscles, increase range of motion, decrease injury risk and recovery time

  • Upper back shoulder roll – trap, rhomboids, teres minor/major, infraspinatus and posterior deltoids + lats
  • Lower back and glute roll – spinal erectors, quadratus lumborum, gluteus medius and gluteus maximus
  • Hip flexors and IT band – hip flexors, upper quads, IT band
  • Pectoral release with a lacrosse ball – pectorals

 

15-20 minutes – Static stretching (unlike the dynamic stretching used in warm up) – reduce the chances of having stiff muscles in the morning, improve recovery after training and give yourself a better night’s sleep by lowering adrenaline levels

  • Upper body stretches:
    • Finger flexors (turn wrist back whilst holding fingers)
    • Finger extensors (bend into fist)
    • Posteriors shoulder stretch (across chest)
    • Rotator cuff stretch (use dowel, towel or bar with two hands behind back (top and bottom) to stretch)
    • Anterior shoulder, chest and biceps stretch (sat, hands behind, slide down)
    • Latissimus, shoulder and triceps stretch (two arms above head, bent at elbows, stretch each side)
  • Lower-torso and leg stretches:
    • Butt and lower-back stretch (lay down, bent leg towards chest)
    • Hamstrings (lay down, straight leg, pull towards chest)
    • Adductor (wall stretch lying)
    • Groin (butterfly, frog)
    • Piriformis (runners lunge but with outside edge of foot)
    • Hip flexors and quads (runners lunge, lift back leg)
    • Calf stretch (elevate toes on step or block)
    • Abdominal stretch (cobra)
    • Obliques, hips and back stretch (sat, one leg over other, twist into body)

 

Stabiliser and Antagonist Muscle Training

 

  • Finger extension against rubber band
  • Reverse wrist curls with weight (1st set – 20-25 reps, 3 min rest, 2nd set – 10-15, 3 min rest)
  • Wrist extension isometric (long contraction) – (hold contraction for 45-60s, 2 sets each arm, 3 min rest)
  • Wide pinch with wrist extension – pinch a plate (30s hold, 3 sets, 1 min rest)
  • Pronator isolation – hammer outwards twist (20-25 reps, 2 sets each hand, 3 min rest)
  • Pronator isolation with exercise band – start face up and turn over (25 reps, 2 sets each hand, 3 min rest)
  • Reverse arm curls – either with a barbell or two equal dumbbells (15-25 reps, one mod heavy set)